This is not a travelogue or an account of a holiday, it is a love letter and I haven’t written many of those.
I didn’t realise it would happen
like this. I thought only romantics fell in love with you. Carb-sluts,
middle-aged divorced women, those who fall in amore all the time like I would
like to, perfectly turned out men - gay and straight, people who pick Romeo and
Juliet as their favourite Shakespeare play.
I’d been to Florence before
twelve years ago and two years ago, and she had already flirted with my mind
and my spirit. But I was there both times with my greatest friends in the world
and I could be anywhere with them and soar with laughter and a satisfied soul.
So I think I ignored it a little. I ignored the feeling walking the streets
gave me, the calmness and yet awe I felt in the presence of the great religious
architecture. My affinity in the worship of coffee.
And then I went back there and
slowly it crept up on me.
I flew into Rome. And Rome
airport was a nightmare. My bags took ages and the airport was dirty and
disorganised, I did not love it. Leaving Rome to transfer directly three hours
away, I did not see much of the city. I still haven’t felt your pleasure Roma.
And then it got good. For the
following two weeks I travelled from islands to coastline in wide-eyed joy. I
went to Elba, Giglio, Capri, Amalfi, Ischia and Naples. The much-praised coast
of the middle-west of Italy deserves all the tomes in its praise.
We spent our days exploring the
architecture, like the great Castello Aragonese in Ischia, with its 2500 years
of History and the Cathedral of Amalfi. We dripped with sweat from the August
heat, paper capes over our vulgar British shoulders, absorbing the relics and
art of Catholicism. We climbed the hills and lanes of Capri revelling in the
buildings and alleys where a little secret pocket of aesthetic joy may be round
any corner. We drank the coffee, all the coffee and exclaimed at the value.
This could be blood here as with the French and their wine.
I flounced around in linen that I
bought cheaply in backstreet shops, twirling skirts and choppy dresses and bright
corals and oranges. I flirted with the boys, smiled at the girls and became
accustomed to their wilful, joyful gazes. I smoked too many cigarettes blaming
the Euro for the price.
I ate the gelato once, resisted
and then gave in to its reputation. I went for a run up the hills of Ischia
marvelling at the coastline and dodging blossoms. In Naples, dusty and mother
of pizza, the buildings called out to me with their balconies I ached to hang
over dreamily.
When I came home, I felt sick and
London chilled me, even though I love her.
You see I am a dreamer, but I’m
sarcastic and I’m spiritual rather than emotional. I never thought I’d
appreciate the raw Italian love of pleasure; from their lunchtime pasta to
their greetings, to their rolling vowels. In their love affairs, in their art
and fashion, they are there, they are present and they are not afraid to show
how happy this makes them. In my lifetime, I have loved many a city, many a
place from London to Hong Kong, New York and Cornwall. However now, age 29, I
have a sneaky suspicion that I want my love affair with Italy to continue. And
I will find a way for it to happen, first perhaps by attempting that tempting
tongue.
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